I try to answer as many questions as I can, and as clear as I can. So I hope the answer you're looking for is here. Otherwise send us an email.
info@yeomansplow.com.au Allan Yeomans Feb 2012
. 1 How and when do I start using the Yeomans Keyline Plow?
Immediately. The day it's delivered. Don't wait for the next rain to soften soils as you normally might. Cultivate now so the next rains are retained. The exception is in grazing land when you are not expecting rain for many months.
In very wet soils, following very heavy or continuous rain, the fungi and bacteria that create humus are aerobic; they breathe air so use the Yeomans as soon as you can get the tractor on the land. Soil life is drowning. With the air, soil life will proliferate like mad.
To get going, (that's when you don't have anything specific in mind), just set the shank spacings at around half a metre or 20". If they are already at 13" (one third metre) leave them there and see how it goes.
In virgin country set the depth at around say 8" (200 mm). Or maybe a little more. And away you go. If the land has ben cultivated any time in the past, dig down with a shovel until you detect the old hard pan. Then set your depth at about 2" to 3" (50 to 75 mm) under the hard pan. and start plowing.
Sometimes it's hard to pull through the hard caked ground the first time around. If it is then don't go in at a shallower depth. The best thing to do is to is to remove a sheer pin and turn a couple of shanks up in the air and out of the way, and that should fix it. They just stand straight up. Takes less than thirty seconds.
Next time you subsoil it will be amazingly easy. So you can just turn the tines back down. Again thirty seconds maximum. ( Forgive me, but I us the words "shanks" and "tines" interchangeably.)
It's working perfectly when you see the ground rise up around the tine and then gently settle back to not quite where it was before. Sometimes hard pans come up like slabs of broken concrete. If it does that a lot, then fit a crumble roller. That will cut through and flatten the big clods.
Storm rains go straight into the deep worked soil. Storm erosion vanishes. There is just no wash. And with all that water and air, and provided the microbes and fungi have some dead root material to eat, then soil life will just explodes.
And you are creating fertility, like it's never happened before so fast!
2. When do I use it during the year and how many times ?
Second cultivation, plow about a month or so after the first rains. That gives hard pans time to break down. In general for pasture, at least once a year to start – maybe twice first year – generally before the rainy season and the hot weather. But don't cultivate immediately following eating the paddock out. Give the grasses a few weeks to reestablish.
. 3 What happens when you hit a stump ?
The plow and shank assemblies are extremely strong, They're pretty much designed to go anywhere. They have to be for when you are sub-soiling you are generally going deeper than any previous cultivation ever. It's like virgin land.
You will pull out most stumps and break through most roots. Very big stumps – say two feet (600mm) through, you might shear a shear pins, the shank swings back – won‘t fall off – then bounces along until the end of the run. Then simply slip in a new shear pin. (this is undoubtedly the easiest to use and the cheapest shear pin system in the world).
If you don't hit the stump head on then you break through all the old roots. At the next cultivation, usually the big center stump will come out with no trouble. It's like a rotten tooth. There is no cheaper way of clearing stumps. Big rocks – you just pull them out of the ground, say up to half ton or so. Bedrock – plow scrapes over the top. You can see the blue smoke coming out of the ground. Sometimes you will sheer a sheer pin.
. 4 How deep do you go ?
If there is no hard pan, first cultivation about 3” or 4” (75 to 100mm) deeper than main root mass of pasture – say about 6” – 10”. (150mm to 250mm) Subsequent cultivations about half a hand (2” or 50mm ) deeper that previous. This is generally satisfactory and will give you a complete breakout between the shanks.
No great commercial advantage occurs by cultivating much over say 14”(350mm). The exception being if you are in badly leached soils where you are chasing minerals. The worst, most leashed, most pitiful soils are those in stable tropical rain forests. That's when you have to go really deep to find nutritious minerals.
When hard pan occurs the theoretical ideal cultivating depth would be halfway through the hardpan. But that's near impossible so don't try for this depth. The hardpan is like a slab of concrete three inches (75mm) underground and is almost an engineering problem and not an agricultural problem. If the ground is moist, cultivate a minimum depth of just under the hardpan with all the tines on. If it is a little dryer you can pull up big slabs of hardpan, which you don't want. Take off every 2 nd tine and spread tines as far apart as possible front to rear and cultivate a couple of inches under the hardpan. Pan will start to break down even with no rain. Wait for rain – cultivate about the same depth as previous at the next cultivation. Subsequent cultivation should be determined by deepening root zone. A good alternative is to fit a crumble roller. This breaks up the big slabs of hardpan material and speeds up the formation of fertile soil.
. 5 How to decide a plow size ?
Allow 7 to 15 horsepower per tine to determine frame size.
In initial cultivation in very compacted soils – dry hardpans etc. horsepower requirements can initially go up to 20 or even 30 horsepower per tine. So a practical decision on the size of the plow is to allow ten horsepower per tine. So then to start fit only enough tines that are comfortable to pull. And spread them out over the width of the plow. You can also get more tines next season when the soil has developed and the plow is easier to pull.
It's difficult to imagine how you could make a tine with less resistance going through the ground. That's why they are made the way they are. And that's why they generally pull themselves into the ground. So a small plow can often stop a big crawler tractor. But this is not the way to operate. You're wasting power. The depth wheels, or the crumble roller, must be set to limit this action and make the plow operate at the depth desired.
The root mass moves down progressively each season. If the root mass isn't interested in going that depth just yet, then it won't and the cultivation at the extreme depth will close up within a year or so. The depth is determined by the depth of vigorous root activity. Go a few inches below this activity and the roots are happy to move down.
6 What are the general tine spacings ?
Frames are designed for a spacing between tines of , 13” or 1/3 of a metre. Tine spacings can be adjusted to suit what you want to do. What limits your choice is the front to rear beams on the plow frame. Different models and sizes have different locations for these beams. So each specific frame will have a range of even tine spacings that dodge these beams. Generally there is quite a variety of exactly equal tine spacings in every frame and model. Ring the office or email us. We also make three point linkage models as standard for row crops, cotton etc. that permit spacings of 33cm, 50cm and 1 metre, on the one frame.
In pasture work you can pretty much set the spacings at whatever you want At the worst one or two tines will not be at the exact even spacing due to the location of these front to rear beams. That the tines aren't all exactly even won't mean a thing in pasture work. As a general guide for pasture set tines or shanks about half a metre to point eight of a metre, say 20” to 32” apart.
For crop work check if the frame that suits you will allows you to set the required spacings. Usually it isn't a problem. However frames can be ordered to suit any specific spacing. A special frame might cost a little more but usually not much.
Questions used to arise as to the sowing of cereal crops at 12" or 13" (one third metres) spacings as opposed to the old established spacings of 6” or 7”. The consensuses in the last several decades has settled down (at least here in Australia) and this is what's generally been found. Paddocks side by side show no measurable difference in yields between the narrower and wider row spacings. Closer row spacings may be better in dry windy conditions to possibly lower drying effects from the wind. On the other hand with slightly excess moisture, mould and rust problems are more pronounced. It also seems that around 15” (say 375 mm) a yield drop off can occur so that seems to be the safe maximum for cereal crops such as wheat.
7 Three point linkage, trailing models, which to choose?
The decision is affected by many things, the horsepower of the tractor, what the crops might be, the size of the paddocks, the steepness of the country, the gate sizes on the farms etc.
Below about 150 horse power, tend towards three point linkage.
Row crops, usually 3PL
Small paddocks 3PL. Large paddocks either.
Steep country, tend to 3PL for easier maneuverability.
Crawler tractors, usually trailing models
Irrigation bays 3PL
Trailing model have slightly better pulling angle for penetration at depth.
Trailing models are more expensive.
It's usually easier to rig an air-seeder to pull behind a trailing model, or to pull a trailing model behind an air seeder.
8 Do I need coulters?
In shallow but densely matted pastures, coulters are often needed. After a few cultivations the grass roots go down instead of out and coulters are not so important.
If the ground is covered with vine type plants coulters prevent buildup.
Coulters have little effect on the subsoiling effects you are after.
Don't use coulters if the ground is full of rocks. If a coulter disk roles over a big rock or a big lump of wood, the coulter effectively acts as the depth control so can get overloaded and be damaged. But they are pretty rugged.
Sometimes on large trailing model plows you might find a build-up occurs, often at one specific point on the plow. A coulter strategically placed on the plow beam just ahead will fix the problem. A couple of coulters on a 40 foot plow is often all that is needed to prevent build of plant residue for hours of continuous subsoiling or plowing.
9 Yeomans Shank types
There is a 22 inch shank, fitted to all the GP series. It's for low horsepower tractors. It takes about three tonnes to sheer pin.
There is a Stump Jump shank for country that is so full of rocks, stones and stumps that it is almost impossible to plow using any type of shank. They trip out at around three tonnes tip load but before they trip they act like a rigid tine and stay in position to considerable depths.
There is a 26 inch shank fitted to all other plows. It takes about six tonnes to shear the sheer pin.
As a general recommendations fit the 26 inch shank plows. They are best in irrigation country especially where hardpans are deep and thick and also where soil leaching is more pronounced. Long shanks are recommended where stubble can occur. 26 inch shanks are best for soils that have the potential for deep cultivation. Also for cultivation where trees are to be planted.
26 inch shanks give more clearance for the attachment of our other equipment. And is the best choice as more depth options are available.
There is also a 31 inch shank a shank with adjustable height. These are for special purposes only.
10 Wombats, or the new Merlin point ?
Wombats are standard equipment on all rigid tine plows. But if the soil is even slightly abrasive always go for the prize winning Merlin point. (there is a photo of a Merlin Point on page 7 in the RED BOOK)
Even deep working in very abrasive soil you will find that point wear works out less than the cost of the diesel to drive the tractor.
The Merlin 2 will be available early 2012. The Merlin 2 has a replaceable cover protected by a combination of tungsten carbide strips and a very exotic hard facing material. For soils with big and hard rocks the hard facing replaces the tungsten carbide. The replaceable cover is called a Gauntlet.
In field use shows that the Merlin 2 system with the tungsten carbide is about one eighth the wear costs of the Wombat. With the hard facing it's about on fifth the cost of a Wombat. With the Merlin, the wear factor, when subsoiling reduces to insignificance. We are thrilled with results coming in.
11 Can I fit conventional chisel plow points?
YES! That's versitility for you!
There is a point adaptor. It's called an AJ 50 Adapter. (on page 7 in the RED BOOK) It knocks on to any of the shanks, same as Wombats or Merlin points. However the front of this adaptor is like a pretend lower end of a spring tined chisel plow shank, with the same tool mounting bolt holes. They're the same centers as on the original Grahme Holme Chisel Plow. That means that all the range of chisel plow earth working points and sweeps can be fitted to the Yeomans. So hundreds of various points can be fitted. Effectively, the Yeomans becomes the only cultivating implement you'll need on the farm.
12 Do I want a Yeomans Shakaerator?
The Shakaerator is a box like unit containing adjustable weights mounted on a revolving shaft. The unit is driven by a power take off drive shaft running at the power take off drive speed; either 550 rpm or 1000 rpm. The unit is rigidly bolted to the frame of the plow. The effect is like crossing the plow with a jack hammer. The out of balance is enough to make it very difficult to revolve the shaft by hand. It's just too heavy. The Shakaerator works better on smaller plows. Big plows are too heavy to be much effected by the spinning weights. Three point linkage plows up to around, say 14 foot wide or three and a half metres are where they work best. A Shakserator is pictures at the bottom of page 11 in the RED BOOK.
This vibration reduces the horsepower required to pull the plow through the ground. Owners tell us it allows them to change up to the next gear. It has the effect of adding about two to three more horse power per tine to the tractor.
In general the horse power of tractors has risen over recent years so Shakaerators are not as important as they once were. A Shakaerator costs just under $1000, plus the cost of the PTO shaft, if there is not one supplied with the tractor.
The vibrations tend to shatter the soil and break any large clods This of course is the point of subsoiling, to let air and water into the soil and subsoil so as to stimulate soil biological activity that in turn creates the stable humus that is the essence of fertile soil. They way they assist shattering can be dramatic. The difference can often be seen visually immediately after cultivation when comparing two rows, one with the Shakaerator operating and one with the Shakaerator out of gear.
13 What are Batswings For ?
The Batswings are used for weeding and the range of cultivation where sweeps would be used. Effectively they are a heavy duty sweep. Batswings can be inverted and used for “hilling up” for row crop work. They last a good twice as long as conventional sweeps. They can also be hard faced for extra wear. They are also used apparently with very good results in sugarcane for deep working. (The ground doesn't want to be too hard)
14 What's this Wobble Blade thing I hear all about ?
They're a type of weed knife that can be used when the paddock is full of rocks and stumps. Ordinarily weed knives are only used in well worked ground. They're rigid. A blade hits a stump, it breaks or bends.
The Wobble blade is a totally new concept. We even took out a patent on the idea. First the assembly is much heavier and stronger than conventional systems, but the big thing is it's free to wobble from side to side. The assembly is mounted of a one inch pin. The right side blade hits something that it can't cut through, or push aside, and the blade swings out of the way. And the left blade swings forward.
Between the blades is a vertical fin, like a ship's keel, that keeps the system straight. To wobble out of the way the rock has to force this fin sideways through the ground. And that takes some doing.
Wobble Blades work like a cross between a heavy rigid blade plow and a standard, light, secondary cultivation, weed knife. They solve a lot of problems.
You can use the Wobble Blades for weeding when growing crops; and with just no fear whatever of hitting something you didn't know was there. Or you can use them when clearing new country. They're great in scrub country. It just treats small bushes, up to around, say, two inches 50 mm thick, like little weeds.
The weed knives, (for little weeds) shown at the top of page 10; we don't sell many anymore. We still stock them, but the Wobble Blades have really taken off.
The whole Wobble Blade assembly costs around three hundred dollars.
And they're built to work.
14 Handling Hard Pans in Irrigation Country ?
Quite remarkable results are obtained in irrigation country. The hardpans are generally deeper, starting at 6” or 7” and the pan itself is thicker, as much as 8” thick, very much harder and a great deal more impervious. This situation results from a great deal more cultivation damaging the soil structure and flushing of the soil particles down by the artificially high “rainfall”. The effects of deep cultivation through this hardpan are:-
Firstly – Irrigation water will go much deeper and quickly. A six inch mud layer is not created which will dry out quickly in hot dry conditions. The roots will penetrate down deeper to obtain moisture and minerals at the same time deepening the living soil zone.
Secondly – the amount of waterings is considerably reduced (in one case, from once every 4 days to once every 14 days).
Thirdly – this has the effect of stopping the rising water table carrying the salt problems to the surface. The water table will start to drop and any salt problems will start to diminish. Normal leeching will then start to cleanse the salt from the soil.
15 Trailing Model Depth Control ?
If an accurate constant depth is required, most people fit a set of ram stops on the piston rod. There are two types, the common aluminum clip on and a new one which are twist on split plastic washers. We don't stock the plastic ones. Generally speaking the plow you will be operating deeper than country is generally worked, generally deeper than is ever worked in your area. At these unexplored depths an inch, more or less makes little difference. The plow uses phasing cylinders so the plow stays even at any depth. Just put it back in about as before and it will be OK. A depth mark somewhere anywhere is all you need.
16 Three Point Linkage Model Depth Control ?
It's good so we patented the system right at the beginning. It won the National Field Days Design award. The editor of “Farm Show” – an American "Choice" type magazine for agricultural machinery and equipment, saw it when in Australia, and wrote it up as one of the three most sensible, and practical, and innovative inventions he'd seen in recent Australian agriculture. .
A main feature adding and contributing to its strength and simplicity of operation occurs because the weight of the plow is shared on both sides with ten separate lugs. Whereas with just about all other systems, the load is taken on one specific point. ( such as a bolt or a pin).The simple steel key that holds and locks it at the chosen depth, always seems to work its way into mesh, never out. And that makes it, safe as houses. To keep it simple there is there is no left or right hand unit. Also the system can be quickly mounted on any front to rear member, and on either side of that member. To top it off I don't think we've ever had a failure, or a jam, anywhere, ever.
With the Yeomans system; in an instant, the whole frame can be set within a couple of inches of the ground or the depth can be set so that the points don't even touch the ground. Also the cast mounts can be turned upside down for road trailing. Put the steel depth casting on the front and back beams of your plow and you can practically end tow the plow ar highway speeds. You'll like it.
17 Should I get Splitter Blades?
If you are in abrasive country or if you want to go down to a considerable depth straight off, then fit them. Otherwise you can wait and see what happens. You can fit Splitter Blades (often referred to as “shin guards”) on the Yeomans even after you get wear on the leading edge of the shank. They still go straight on, and stay on. Normally shin guards on digging implements have to be fitted from the very start, as they can't be fitted once even the slightest wear has occurred. Also if the shin guard wears through and exposes the tine, that's it. The tine can't ever be fitted with a guard again, (apart from welding it on). The Yeomans system doesn't have that problem. However generally people get their plow with Splitter Blades anyway. So now we have the purchase price include the supply and fitment of Splitter Blade.
In country with a lot of trash the Splitter Blades both lets the trash ride up out of the ground and minimize any trash build up. Also, after a some use, the leading edge tends to sharpen up and this knife edge splits the trash. Hence the name.
18 How fast should travel with a Yeomans?
Generally speaking travel at around a good walking pace, say 3 to 4 mph, say 5 to 6 kph. It's okay to go a bit faster but when subsoiling the point is traveling in ground that possible has never before seen the light of day, so you hit things that you never suspected where there.
Also you want the earth to rise and fall gently. Traveling faster tends to throw the earth around more and you get more soil layers intermixing; and soil microbiological life doesn't like that.
With smaller tractors if you hit a totally immovable obstruction, it really pulls back on the tractor. And that gives you time to stop and back off, and you won't sheer a sheer pin.
( We will continue to expand this questionand answers page with any thing we think you might be interested in
Allan Yeomans Feb 2012 )
